Waxing your car

OK, let’s get one thing straight: Polishing is not waxing, and waxing is not polishing. They are 2 very different, separate and distinct processes, with different purposes. Polishing your paintwork is what gives you the shine, the reflections, the lustre. Most people that that’s what wax does, but it’s not true! Consider this: A lot of cars entered into concourse events do not use any wax at all, they present with a purely polished finish, as they feel they wax detracts from the ultimate clarity provided by polishing.

The purpose of waxing is to lock in the shine that you got from polishing, and to protect the paint from UV damage, from bird poo, from airborne contaminants, from water etching, and from other nasties. Waxing will add depth and wetness to the shine, but if you didn’t do a good job polishing, then waxing isn’t going to magically give you a show car finish.
There are essentially 2 types of wax, natural wax based primarily on Carnauba wax, and Synthetic waxes, more correctly called sealants. However the purpose, and in most cases the method of application, is the same. In general terms, natural waxes are harder to work with, and don’t last as long, but they provide a warm wet look. Synthetic sealants are generally very easy to use, and most last longer than natural waxes, but to my eyes, they look a bit clinical and even plasticky, but they both have a valid place.

The normal method for applying wax is to apply a fine layer with a hand held foam applicator. Remember: Less is More!. Let me say that again: Less is more! Even after emphasising that point, the natural thing you will do is use more, and this will just create more work for yourself. After you’ve done it a few times, you’ll get to learn that you only need to use the tiniest amount.

Let the wax dry to a fine haze (anywhere from 5 mins to an hour). This will take longer if you have used too much, in fact it may not even dry properly at all. Once it has dried, then buff off the residue with a microfiber towel. What you are doing is leaving behind a very very thin layer that will harden like concrete and protect your paint, and keep it looking good.
Most waxes (except for “cleaner-waxes”) can be layered, ie you apply a new layer every week for several weeks, to give extra depth and protection. Be mindful though, that a coat of wax will take 24 hours to harden, and 72 hours to fully cure, you can’t put anything else on the paint until the wax is fully cured, including another coat of wax.

As mentioned above, there are some waxes called “cleaner-waxes”, which contain some cleaners and even abrasives. They will strip any previous layers of wax, and so they can’t be layered, but they have the advantage of being a mini-polish and wax all in one step. If you are prepared to wax your car every 4-6 weeks regularly, then a cleaner-wax may be a good solution for you.

Most waxes will last around 6-8 weeks per coat, with some synthetic sealants claiming 6 months protection or more. You’ll be able to tell though, when you have enough wax on the car, water will form in tight, tall, perfectly round beads. As the wax wears off though, the beads will become less round, and they won’t sit as tall.

There are hundreds, or even thousands of different waxes out there, I’ve only tried a small sample of them, but I will try to make some recommendations based on requirements.

There are several different factors involved with selecting the right wax for you. These include ease of use, longevity, ultimate look among other things.

Probably the best bang for buck wax in the world is Optimum Car Wax (OCW). It comes in a spray bottle, and one bottle should do one car for a year. It is very easy to apply (less than 10 mins for a whole car), it layers very well, lasts very well, and looks fantastic. This is a great wax for beginners and more experienced people alike.

If however you want something that is going to last a whole lot longer than OCW, then take a look at Zaino Z2Pro (mixed with Zaino Zfx hardener), it’s also very easy to apply and will last for months. It has a more clinical look that OCW, but it still looks great and lasts for ages

If the ultimate look is what is important to you, but you are budget conscious, then take a look at P21S paste wax. It’s a natural carnauba wax, and is harder to apply than OCW, but it was a warmer wetter look

If you want a better look than P21S, and you have a little more money to spend, then my favourite wax is Swissvax Concorso. It costs about $AUD300 per tub, but you should get 50 coats of wax from a single tub. This is my favourite wax. It’s harder to apply (they recommend applying it by hand, but find I get better results using an applicator), and it lasts about as long as OCW, but it looks so warm and wet, I just can’t go past it.